Rich Ita’s

Brass Instrument Workshop

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I ship my instrument to you?

We prefer that you ship your horn without a case, unless the case is lightweight or tight fitting. Wrap the instrument in a nice cocoon of bubble wrap, particularly around the bell, and place in a strong cardboard box large enough to allow 4-6 inches all the way around the instrument. Fill box with packing peanuts. Since contents settle during shipment, make sure you shake the box and overfill with peanuts. MAKE SURE YOU INCLUDE A LETTER OF INSTRUCTIONS AND YOUR CONTACT INFORMATION WITH THE INSTRUMENT! We have no preference in shipping carrier, although insured priority mail works very well. We have found the sturdiest cardboard boxes at U-Haul, or at your local music store from instruments that were previously shipped to them. We insure all instruments at replacement cost when we return them to you. 

Do I need a reservation or appointment to get repair work done?

We accept appointments for same day service, but in most cases you do not need a reservation to drop off your instrument. Please call or e-mail if you have specific needs.

Do you require a deposit?

Any work over $300 requires a deposit - 50% of the total repair cost. If shipping your instrument to us, this must be included.

What methods of payment do you accept?

We accept cash, checks (made payable to BIW, Inc.), major credit cards including Visa, Mastercard, and Discover. WE DO NOT ACCEPT AMERICAN EXPRESS. We can also accept Paypal using the following e-mail address : richita1@earthlink.net.

What is a chem clean?

During a chem clean, the instrument is disassembled, degreased, and soaked in mild acids to dissolve any deposits and brighten the metal. It is then thoroughly rinsed, and all tubes are polished inside and out. Stubborn deposits may be physically scraped off. The instrument is then reassembled with fresh lubricants, new corks and felts are added, and the valves are aligned. All reachable dents are removed and the instrument is polished as needed.

How long does a chem clean take?

Typically, your instrument will need to be in our shop for 3-5 days, depending on the instrument and the shop schedule. While the procedure takes only a few hours, we have a heavy workload and are sometimes backed up. Same day service can be arranged by appointment if needed.

How long does a refinishing job take?

The average refinishing job takes 4-8 weeks, again depending on the shop schedule and the condition and size of the instrument. During the summer, a complete refinishing job may take 12 weeks or longer, due to heavy workload.

Why does it take so long to refinish an instrument?

Aside from a very heavy workload in our shop, we are also dependent on suppliers and subcontractors who have heavy workloads as well. An order for parts takes at least a week if in stock and much longer if backordered. Plating and lacquering have backlogs of 10-30+ days, depending on the time of year.

When does an instrument need refinishing?

When the original finish is worn down to the base metal or the instrument is showing signs of pitting, it may be time for a refinishing job. Please call to discuss your individual horn condition.

What is involved in a slide job?

A slide job includes: Chem clean, truing and straightening the tubes of the slide, removing all dents, realigning all tubes, Teflon treatment.

What is involved in a valve rebuilding job?

During a valve rebuilding job, plating is stripped from the valve (if applicable) and the valve and casing are honed true. On Monel valves, the ports are blocked to prevent plating inside. The valves are then plated with copper (to increase diameter), honed, plated with hard bright nickel, honed again, and then hand-lapped into the casing for proper fit and feel. The valves are then realigned with proper bumper materials, and springs and guides are replaced as necessary.

Should I have my horn refinished with plating or lacquer?

Many people like clear lacquer on their instrument to show the contrasting colors of the metals. However, if restoration requires a great deal of sanding and/or polishing to make the instrument cosmetically presentable, the integrity of the instrument can be weakened and may either require patches to strengthen the metal, or the instrument can be plated to restore as close to an original finish as possible. If your instrument is heavily worn or has been restored 2-3 times, we recommend silver or gold plating, with either a double or triple coat if necessary. The horn may also be plated with copper first and then adding silver.

Will my instrument look brand new?

This greatly depends on the condition of the instrument and the amount of damage, wear, scratches, pitting, and abuse the instrument has suffered. We use our best judgment to bring your instrument to the best cosmetic appearance, while maintaining its original playing characteristics. When too much metal is removed, the tone becomes harsh, raspy, and uncentered. On some occasions, pitting and scratches are so severe that we cannot fully remove them without endangering the quality of the instrument. We are more interested in preservation of your instrument than cosmetic perfection.

What is Red Rot?

Red Rot is the de-zincification of the brass alloy when it is exposed to the corrosive elements in your breath. Zinc is the least stable part of the brass alloy, and when it breaks down, is leaches out of the metal’s crystalline structure, leaving the copper exposed (hence the red appearance). Red Rot generally starts on the inside of leadpipes and main tuning slides, where the breath condensation crystallizes, forming plaque-like deposits that behave similarly to the plaque that forms on your teeth. These deposits gradually form cavities that eat through the metal. While the cavities are microscopic at first, the more deposits that develop, the more the cavities spread. This weakens the structure of the brass and eventually holes and/or cracks form.

How can I prevent Red Rot?

One of the easiest methods of prevention is to clean your leadpipe after every playing session. This can be done using a snake, “Spitballs,” or even a swab. The rate of decay depends mainly on an individual’s body chemistry, so while a cleaning after each session may be necessary, some players may find that they can clean their leadpipes on a weekly basis or even longer. Players can also blow a 1/2 teaspoon of valve oil through the leadpipe and the rest of the horn to protect the interior, so deposits won’t cling to the metal. Rinsing or brushing your teeth after eating and before playing may also help prevent Red Rot.  

Can Red Rot be fixed?

While it is not always possible to ‘fix’ Red Rot, it can be slowed down. Depending on how extensive the damage is, the deposits can be chemically loosened and scraped from the metal. If the brass structure hasn’t been weakened too much, the instrument can still be played without worrying about further deterioration. However, if the damage is very extensive, one can expect to eventually discover holes forming in the metal. Eventually the damaged metal must be patched or replaced. Some manufacturers have begun using metals that are more resistant to corrosion when building slides and leadpipes. Nickel is one of these metals and can be found more frequently.